I generally slit 35mm film from standard or reloadable cassettes, so the unused film remains in the cassette. With bulk 16mm film, I have found it convenient to cut the 100 foot length into the proper, pre-slit, lengths and store them in sealed film cans in a black bag. I then transfer as many pieces as I am prepared to slit into another film can and temporarily place it in a paper safe on the counter. I can then store the slit lengths in another film can in the same paper safe until ready to load into the cassettes. I have one piece of thick foam tape stuck to the top of the "already slit" can and nothing on the "not yet slit" can. Remember you will be in TOTAL darkness during the slitting process, so careful placement of the items listed below will reduce "groping" time.

Clean the work surface of all dust and debris. I run a small desktop negative ion generator from the '70s and $20 drugstore air purifier for an hour or more prior to beginning.

I then lay out the -

• slitter base with end blocks
• slitter block (assure that the blades are sharp)
• roll of cover paper and scotch tape
• winding dowel
• scissors
• cassettes
• empty film cans for the temporary storage of slit film
• film supply

1. Prepare cassettes
   1. Remove caps from both supply and takeup chambers
   2. Place takeup chamber caps and spools aside for later use
   3. Blow out both supply and takeup chambers with compressed air paying particular attention to the felt light traps. Place on table upside down.
   4. Blow out plastic cassette boxes and place on counter upside down.
   5. Arrange the cassette bodies, supply chamber caps, and boxes in a position where you can find them by feel in the dark.
2. Cut a proper length of 35mm (or 16mm) paper, wrap it around the end of the board and tape it to the bottom to hold it firmly against the action of the slitter. The nails in the START PLATE will not hold the paper securely without the paper being wrapped around the end of the board.
3. Pull out a short length of film from a loaded 35mm cassette (be careful not to expose film that will be slit for use).
4. Pull the paper back out of the way and lay the film (emulsion side down) in the trough, aligning it with the end of the board so the nails in the START PLATE will penetrate the film or sprocket holes.
5. Pull the paper back over the film, align and press the paper and film into the trough, securing by pressing the START PLATE, through the paper and film and into the base.

1. Pull the cassette, smoothing the film FACE DOWN, into the trough.
2. Pull the paper over the film and making sure both are lying flat in the bottom of the trough.
3. Plug the END PLATE into the appropriate holes, loosely holding the film in place.
4. Position the slitter with the trailing edge against the START PLATE, pressed firmly into the film.
5. Push continuously and slowly with pressure until it hits the END PLATE.

(16mm NOTE) Since the lights are on when positioning a new piece of paper, and, when slitting 16mm film, only one load is slit for each pass, I find it convenient to precut 16mm film into proper lengths (using the base board as a guide) and store these in an empty, properly sealed, film can. Remember that in order to extend under the START PLATE and end plates, the "blanks" must be longer than the finished length!

1. Using the film length Slots as guides, slip scissors under the film (as shown above) and cut the film ends.

2. Pete Zimmerman suggests putting the strips in a light-tight can (bulk film can, developing tank, etc.) and returning to the following steps when all of the film is cut. I use bulk film cans and, for added safety, temporarily store them on the counter in a light-tight paper-safe.

3. Use the dowel shown in the building section, roll-up the film, pulling it through an antistatic cloth.
4. Use the dowel to insert the film into the supply side chamber of the cassette, sliding the end of the film into the light-trap slot, leaving about 1.5 inches protruding from the opening slot.
5. Withdraw the dowel, press the film fully into the chamber, and install the cap.

THIS IS ALL DONE IN COMPLETE DARKNESS, being sure that everything is organized before turning off the light. Chasing the little parts is really fun.

1. Prepare strips of 1/4 inch wide "White Artist's Tape", approximately 1.5 inches long.
2. I generally pull out a bit less than 1.5 inches of film and attach a bit less than half the tape to the back (non emulsion side) of the film.
3. Attach the take-up spool, carefully aligning it with the film. I have found it unnecessary to wrap the tape entirely around the takeup spool to the emulsion side of the film, as is done with factory loads. You may choose to do this.
4. I Slide the film through the "light trap" slot in the take up side, allowing the cup-like spool to settle into the chamber. THIS IS THE MOST LIKELY SPOT TO BREAK THE cassette! (as I have done, see above) - HINT: I have found that a small piece of film, temporarily inserted into the "light trap" slot, at an angle, from inside the chamber, will act as a guide for the film being loaded.
5. Holding the cap loosely over the take up chamber, I insert the large end of the dowel through the hole in the take up chamber cap, into the spool, and wiggle it around until the cap settles down over the spool, then press down on the cap to snap it into place.

Although I load my own 35mm film and allow 40 frames in rolls I am going to slit for the Minox, you can get 2 lengths from a 36 exposure commercial roll. That means four 36 exposure Minox loads or eight (if you are careful) 15 exposure loads. Of course, you must already have cassettes, but they will last forever IF you are careful not to break them. Minox sells a slitter with which the entire 35mm roll can be slit at once, then cut to length. This eliminates waste between lengths and gives a little more usable film.

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