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Viewing
JPEG & GIF Images

Introduction
Camera Work
Group f/64
Reference Materials
The Zone System
the Ansco Memo

making a
Photograph
Image Management
Sharpness
Negative Size
Field of View & Focal Length
Depth of Field & Diffraction

FILM
Response to Light
Finding Film Speed
Making a Choice
Exposing
SEI Exposure Photometer
Developing
PMK Pyro
Rodinal
History & Credits
Slitter for the Minox.
and for 120 Rollfilm
living with Roll Film

about the PRINT
Digital Negatives

Digital Imaging
what are Pixels
Binary Arithmetic
Color and Grayscale Codes

the Scanner.
Density Range
Negative or Print?
Color or B&W?

Manipulation
Adjusting Tonal Range

the Minox
Using a Minox
Loading & UnLoading
Setting Film & Shutter Speeds
Negative Enlargeability
Slitting & Loading Film
Film Developing Tank
Equipment, Supplies, Service, Processing
References & Galleries

the Gallery

Links

Other Passions

Copyright Notice

Final Check

The presence of pure white and pure black can be assessed using the high and low value bands attached to each negative, as described in Step 4,

Each print should be evaluated for exposure, development, and contrast. Variability among prints maybe caused by changes in

  1. Paper, chemicals, or processing
  2. Intensity or color of light source
  3. Effective density of the negative due to fading, or drying

Without the scales attached to each print, subtile deviations from the optimum will go unnoticed. The most troublesome for me are #2 and #3, light intensity being a continuous problem, and the fading of the negative most noticeable within the first few weeks.

The density scales on each properly made print should exhibit the following characteristics.

Loss of Contrast

Clue: White band has no white, as easily seen against the taped portion, while the low value (black) scale exhibits the expected density. Since the contrast is controlled by both density AND color in the negative, I would be at a loss to know which has caused the loss of "effective density". The most direct fix for this problem is to add a bit of magenta when printing.

Excessive Exposure

Clue: Too much density in both the high AND low value scales. If all of the normal procedures have been followed, this is most likely due to an unstable light source and requires checking with a light probe such as the Ilford EM10.


The Specific Problem of Negative Fading

Since the calibration process is usually carried out with negatives that have just been printed, the "effective density" is provided by "fresh" ink. Does the effective density change as the ink dries? It now appears the answer is YES! Prints made with negatives that are 2 to 3 weeks old, exhibit the tonality shown in the "Loss of Contrast" example above. Black is fine, but white is no longer white, indicating that HUE=0 and a Transfer Function setting of 70 does not provide adequate contrast after the negative has aged.

Rather than change the initial negative color, I have chosen to add magenta to the light source, and add exposure time. This means a bit of print testing at each new session, but perhaps the degradation will slow or stop after the first few days.

Light Source

"Fresh" negative

White

"Aged" negative

~ 30cc Magenta

Home

Preparation

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Image Preparation
Material Selection

Find Minimum Exposure Needed to Print Pure BLACK with the chosen negative material

Find Ink Combination
for the Proper "Effective Density" to Print Pure White.

Create an Adjustment Curve

Make a negative